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台湾观察

台湾一周旅游的发现和感想

两周前,我和妻子在学校秋休时去了台湾旅行,这是一次特别的体验。虽然氛围是熟悉的中华文化,但台湾与大陆的差异明显,如宗教自由度高、环境较脏和物价不低。城市建筑老旧,大型设备少,但交通秩序较好。总体来说,体验满意但气候不宜。

  1. #台湾旅行
  2. #文化体验
  3. #城市风格
  4. #宗教景观
  5. #气候评价
  6. #自然风光
  7. #旅游记忆

503

A tall, red brick clock tower with white trim and a flag at the top, set against a cloudy sky.A tall, red brick clock tower with white trim and a flag at the top, set against a cloudy sky.

前两周趁着学校秋休み的时候跟媳妇一起去台湾玩了一周,的确是很独特的体验。不是因为自然环境或者物质因素,而是整体的氛围感觉。

目前中国居民是无法去台湾旅游的,因为我们属于日本居民,所以并不麻烦地就申请到了入台证。

在大阪机场的时候,放眼望去,全部是拿着中华民国和日本护照的人,中国公民似乎就我们两个。

An aerial view of a city from an airplane, with a large cityscape below and a cloudy sky above.An aerial view of a city from an airplane, with a large cityscape below and a cloudy sky above.
An aerial view of an airplane's wing with a purple logo, surrounded by a vast body of water and a cityscape in the distance.An aerial view of an airplane's wing with a purple logo, surrounded by a vast body of water and a cityscape in the distance.

关于本次旅行的摄影,请移步:

是中国又不是中国

这就是我在台湾最强烈的感受。

人们说的话我能听懂,街上的招牌能看懂。城市街道像广东和福建的某个地方,流行的食物也是中餐。甚至乱糟糟、吵吵闹闹的感觉,也很熟悉。台湾的硬件,毫无疑问是文化意义上的中国。

A busy city street at night, lined with shops and restaurants, with parked cars and motorcycles, and a traffic light.A busy city street at night, lined with shops and restaurants, with parked cars and motorcycles, and a traffic light.

但如果将中国定义为PRC,那台湾绝对不是中国。

A large, multi-story building with many air conditioning units and a large sign on its side, surrounded by other buildings and a cloudy sky.A large, multi-story building with many air conditioning units and a large sign on its side, surrounded by other buildings and a cloudy sky.
中国绝不会见到的一个场面

这里看不到常见的中国品牌,反倒是在看到某个熟悉的品牌后,才恍然大悟:原来这是台湾/外国的牌子啊。前者如天仁茗茶,后者如新加坡品牌海底捞。

这里没有中国那些常见的场景:无处不在的政治标语、一个街口的十个摄像头、几乎绝迹的现金支付,有的是密集的宗教场所和明显的传教广告牌,以及大量的外国人。

A large, dilapidated building with numerous windows and advertisements on its facade stands in a bustling city street, surrounded by trees and parked motorcycles.A large, dilapidated building with numerous windows and advertisements on its facade stands in a bustling city street, surrounded by trees and parked motorcycles.

这种熟悉又陌生的感觉是台湾给我的最大感受。

宗教

台湾的宗教场所密度应该是华人地区之首。

拿基督教来说,很多教派在中国是见不到的,如耶稣基督后期圣徒教会,浸信会。

A traditional Chinese temple with ornate decorations, a large bronze statue, and a large bronze pot in the center.A traditional Chinese temple with ornate decorations, a large bronze statue, and a large bronze pot in the center.

道教也很常见,尤其是在台南。当时恰逢什么庆祝活动,那两天不断看到有信众抬着神像游街。

A nighttime parade in a city street, with a large dragon-shaped float, people in red shirts, and a tall building in the background.A nighttime parade in a city street, with a large dragon-shaped float, people in red shirts, and a tall building in the background.
A lively street scene in front of a traditional Chinese temple, with a crowd of people in colorful attire and a motorbike parked nearby.A lively street scene in front of a traditional Chinese temple, with a crowd of people in colorful attire and a motorbike parked nearby.

我还见到了一些大陆不可能见到的教派,比如一贯道、法轮功。

除了密度高,这里的传教似乎也不受限制。“神爱世人”就明晃晃地写在街角最显眼的地方。

城市风格

我这次去了台北、台中、台南三个城市。

台北在国际上的影响力尚可。若把台北加入大中华区排名,我认为属于强二线。一线自然是北上广深港。但如果只看台北的街区,就很像是三线城市。

我想大概是因为这里的政府在拆迁上没有太大权力,大量老旧建筑,容积率也挺高,的确会给人破破烂烂的感觉。在造奇观这方面的确很少有国家能比得过中国。但考虑到台北在文化上的影响力,我愿将其列入强二线。

台中给我的感觉很像日本,只是没那么干净整洁。台南更像是汕头。

A large, ornate brick train station with a clock tower, surrounded by a paved area and a few people, is captured in a photograph.A large, ornate brick train station with a clock tower, surrounded by a paved area and a few people, is captured in a photograph.
让我想起东京站

台湾跟日本一样,街道上很少见垃圾桶。但跟日本不同的地方在于,台湾街道真的太脏了!

比中国好的一点是地上不会有吐的痰和槟榔渣,但比日本和中国多了很多其他垃圾:纸片、瓶子、烟头、塑料袋……不一而足。多到我无法忽视的地步。

我还经常能在街头见到招摇过市的大蟑螂,台北宁夏夜市往南京西路的一个路口,我看到几十只大蟑螂在散步,真的被吓到。

机车的确多,在路口的时候,绿灯亮起,几十台摩托车同时轰鸣的场面很壮观,也很吵。

A bustling Chinese street at night, with motorbikes and scooters, pedestrians, and buildings with Chinese characters.A bustling Chinese street at night, with motorbikes and scooters, pedestrians, and buildings with Chinese characters.
A bustling Chinese street at night, lined with parked motorbikes and cars, with tall buildings and neon signs in the background.A bustling Chinese street at night, lined with parked motorbikes and cars, with tall buildings and neon signs in the background.
摩托
A bustling street in Hong Kong, with a woman walking on the sidewalk, parked scooters, and colorful signs.A bustling street in Hong Kong, with a woman walking on the sidewalk, parked scooters, and colorful signs.

另外额外吐槽台南一点,这个城市似乎没有无障碍通道。走在路边经过一排排店铺的时候,他们每一家的地面高度都是不同的。我拖着行李箱走在上面的时候就得不停把箱子抬上抬下,叠加台南的酷热天气,体验极其糟糕。

A street scene with motorcycles parked on a green striped curb, a closed store with a poster, and a red vending machine.A street scene with motorcycles parked on a green striped curb, a closed store with a poster, and a red vending machine.

(在我看来)台湾人开车非常猛,比日本要猛得多。但整体比较有秩序,都能做到车让人。(在成都是不可能的)

气候

我还是低估了热带的气候。来之前我想,都快10月了,再热能热到哪去。结果天天热到爆,还特别潮湿。走在街上没一会衣服就湿透了,很难受。台北相对来说好一些,台中更热一点,台南热到融化。温度上也许没那么高,但湿度真的太大了,而且风很小,导致体感温度特别高。

总之台湾的气候我要打差评。

文化

在这里我看到了中华文明的另一种可能。报站有四种语言,电视里有台语、客家话、原住民频道。我还去书店看了看,有很多台语书籍,以及本土视角的各类论述。

A woman in a blue suit is on a television screen, pointing at a basketball player's image. The basketball player is wearing a white shirt and a blue jacket. The basketball player is wearing a purple hat and a blue jacket. The basketball player is holding a basketball. The basketball player is wearing a white shirt and a blue jacket. The basketball player is wearing a white shirt and a blue jacket. The basketball player is wearing a white shirt and a blue jacket. The basketball player is wearing a white shirt and a blue jacket. The basketball player is wearing a white shirt and a blue jacket. The basketball player is wearing a white shirt and a blue jacket. The basketball player is wearing a white shirt and a blue jacket. The basketball player is wearing a white shirt and a blue jacket. The basketball player is wearing a white shirt and a blue jacket. The basketball player is wearing a white shirt and a blue jacket. The basketball player is wearing a white shirt and a blue jacket. The basketball player is wearing a white shirt and a blue jacket. The basketball player is wearing a white shirt and a blue jacket. The basketball player is wearing a white shirt and a blue jacket. The basketball player is wearing a white shirt and a blue jacket. The basketball player is wearing a white shirt and a blue jacket. The basketball player is wearing a white shirt and a blue jacket. The basketball player is wearing a white shirt and a blue jacket. The basketball player is wearing a white shirt and a blue jacket. The basketball player is wearing a white shirt and a blue jacket. The basketball player is wearing a white shirt and a blue jacket. The basketball player is wearing a white shirt and a blue jacket. The basketball player is wearing a white shirt and a blue jacket. The basketball player is wearing a white shirt and a blue jacket. The basketball player is wearing a white shirt and a blue jacket. The basketball player is wearing a white shirt and a blue jacket. The basketball player is wearing a white shirt and a blue jacket. The basketball player is wearing a white shirt and a blue jacket. The basketball player is wearing a white shirt and a blue jacket. The basketball player is wearing a white shirt and a blue jacket. The basketball player is wearing a white shirt and a blue jacket. The basketball player is wearing a white shirt and a blue jacket. The basketball player is wearing a white shirt and a blue jacket. The basketball player is wearing a white shirt and a blue jacket. The basketball player is wearing a white shirt and a blue jacket. The basketball playerA woman in a blue suit is on a television screen, pointing at a basketball player's image. The basketball player is wearing a white shirt and a blue jacket. The basketball player is wearing a purple hat and a blue jacket. The basketball player is holding a basketball. The basketball player is wearing a white shirt and a blue jacket. The basketball player is wearing a white shirt and a blue jacket. The basketball player is wearing a white shirt and a blue jacket. The basketball player is wearing a white shirt and a blue jacket. The basketball player is wearing a white shirt and a blue jacket. The basketball player is wearing a white shirt and a blue jacket. The basketball player is wearing a white shirt and a blue jacket. The basketball player is wearing a white shirt and a blue jacket. The basketball player is wearing a white shirt and a blue jacket. The basketball player is wearing a white shirt and a blue jacket. The basketball player is wearing a white shirt and a blue jacket. The basketball player is wearing a white shirt and a blue jacket. The basketball player is wearing a white shirt and a blue jacket. The basketball player is wearing a white shirt and a blue jacket. The basketball player is wearing a white shirt and a blue jacket. The basketball player is wearing a white shirt and a blue jacket. 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The basketball player is wearing a white shirt and a blue jacket. The basketball player is wearing a white shirt and a blue jacket. The basketball player is wearing a white shirt and a blue jacket. The basketball player is wearing a white shirt and a blue jacket. The basketball player

举个例子,他们会争论书写台语(闽南语)的时候,到底是用国语(普通话)的语法,还是按照台语本身的语法。

我拿粤语举例。“你吃了没”用粤语念出来,是“你[nei5]吃[hek3]了[liu5]没[mut6]”。但实际上广东人不会这么说,而是会说“你[nei5]食[sik6]咗[zo2]饭[faan6]未[mei6]”。

所以台湾人在讨论的大概就是到底应该写“你吃了没”还是“你食咗饭未”。

放上两张台语书籍图片。

An open book with Chinese text on it, resting on a shelf, with a computer monitor visible in the background.An open book with Chinese text on it, resting on a shelf, with a computer monitor visible in the background.
A book with Chinese text on it is open, with a shelf of books in the background.A book with Chinese text on it is open, with a shelf of books in the background.

自然

我去了日月潭、清静农场、十分瀑布、野柳,体验倒还好。只是单纯从自然风光的角度来评判,这些地方是远不如中国西部(藏区、新疆)的。我可以理解这些地方在岛内是一个好去处,无论从哪个城市出发,一个周末肯定是够用

如果把飞行几千公里的前提考虑进去,台湾的自然风光是一般般的。

物价

去之前看了网上的说法,说台湾物美价廉。但实际感受并没有。肯定不如日本贵,但也便宜不到哪去。

A window display of a fast food restaurant with various food items and prices, including a sandwich, a hamburger, and a pizza.A window display of a fast food restaurant with various food items and prices, including a sandwich, a hamburger, and a pizza.
麦当劳
A large, white menu board with Chinese characters hangs from the ceiling, displaying various food items and prices. The board is adorned with colorful stickers and images, and is positioned in front of a person.A large, white menu board with Chinese characters hangs from the ceiling, displaying various food items and prices. The board is adorned with colorful stickers and images, and is positioned in front of a person.
早点铺
A menu board in a bakery or cafe setting, with various food items and prices listed in both English and Chinese, displayed on a glass display case.A menu board in a bakery or cafe setting, with various food items and prices listed in both English and Chinese, displayed on a glass display case.
A menu board with various food options, including coffee, noodle, and dessert, is displayed on a metal stand in a cafe or restaurant setting.A menu board with various food options, including coffee, noodle, and dessert, is displayed on a metal stand in a cafe or restaurant setting.
A Japanese restaurant menu is displayed in a wooden frame, with a white background and black text. The menu lists dishes such as tempura, ramen, and tempura chicken, along with prices. The menu is in Japanese, and the text is in English.A Japanese restaurant menu is displayed in a wooden frame, with a white background and black text. The menu lists dishes such as tempura, ramen, and tempura chicken, along with prices. The menu is in Japanese, and the text is in English.
A supermarket shelf filled with eggs, vegetables, and other products, with a red and white striped backdrop.A supermarket shelf filled with eggs, vegetables, and other products, with a red and white striped backdrop.
超市物价
A well-organized grocery store aisle features neatly arranged produce, including green and orange vegetables, and a variety of fruits and dairy products.A well-organized grocery store aisle features neatly arranged produce, including green and orange vegetables, and a variety of fruits and dairy products.
超市物价

总结

总体上是个体验还不错,物价还可承受的地方。不过我不喜欢热带,以后可能不会再去了。

李大毛作者

2024年12月2日周一 11:53

回复 高日天: 海底捞好像是简阳的牌子开到国外去的...

现在是新加坡公司,老板也是新加坡人

太隐

2024年12月1日周日 13:15

台湾的气候,我这个北方人是真的无法适应......

高日天

2024年11月29日周五 10:41

海底捞好像是简阳的牌子开到国外去的

林海草原

2024年11月20日周三 05:02

前面评论提到的那个,昨晚我看的时候也感觉出来了,然后自己断句看出来了。今天又看了一遍这篇文章。我对台湾有一个很大的兴趣,就是佛教净土宗的发展。大陆这边净土宗寺院弘愿寺,在2021年初被取缔,当然是“戒律要求不能说假话,但是真话不让说”,所以不知道具体原因。而且我发email询问中华净土宗协会,他们表示已经和大陆这边失联了。我一直很羡慕那边的宗教发展,很想去看看,可惜短时间内是不可能了,不仅仅是钱的问题。

李大毛作者

2024年11月20日周三 00:49

回复 L,.G.: 「这里没有中国那些常见的场景:无处不在的政治标语、一个街口的十个摄像头、几乎绝迹的现金支付、密集的宗教场所和明显的传教广告牌,以及大量的外国人。」这一段的后半部分是不是想表达的意思有误?你想表达的是中国没有密集的宗教场所和明显的传教广告牌,...

👍已修改

JOJO

2024年11月20日周三 00:26

回复 L,.G.: 「这里没有中国那些常见的场景:无处不在的政治标语、一个街口的十个摄像头、几乎绝迹的现金支付、密集的宗教场所和明显的传教广告牌,以及大量的外国人。」这一段的后半部分是不是想表达的意思有误?你想表达的是中国没有密集的宗教场所和明显的传教广告牌,...

我也觉得

L,.G.

2024年11月19日周二 20:56

「这里没有中国那些常见的场景:无处不在的政治标语、一个街口的十个摄像头、几乎绝迹的现金支付、密集的宗教场所和明显的传教广告牌,以及大量的外国人。」这一段的后半部分是不是想表达的意思有误?你想表达的是中国没有密集的宗教场所和明显的传教广告牌,以及大量的外国人,而台湾有吧?