生活

无人之境——青海星空拍摄之旅：世界尽头的茫崖石棉矿

一个从天上看被白色粉尘覆盖的地方，一个无论从什么角度看都符合世界的尽头的地方

格尔木到茫崖的新公路未来可能改善交通，目前通行体验较差。茫崖市包括花土沟镇、冷湖镇、茫崖镇，石棉矿引人注目，保留了60年代的建筑和历史，尽管附近环境恶劣。花土沟是典型油城，居民主要服务于油田。旅途主要是穿越戈壁，沿途景色荒凉。

  1. #茫崖
  2. #戈壁
  3. #石棉矿
  4. #青海
  5. #花土沟
  6. #工业遗产

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An old, dilapidated building sits in a barren, empty lot, surrounded by a fence and a solitary car.An old, dilapidated building sits in a barren, empty lot, surrounded by a fence and a solitary car.

穿越千里戈壁

格尔木通往茫崖的格茫公路与格库铁路大致平行，上面全是来往新疆的大卡车，驾驶体验比较糟。不过旁边不远处新的格茫公路正在修建，将来交通状况估计会改善。

在中灶火有一些饭店，还有一个乌图美仁公安检查站，在这里排了几公里的队，耗费了不少时间。

A large, white building with red Chinese characters on its side, surrounded by a sandy road and a clear blue sky.A large, white building with red Chinese characters on its side, surrounded by a sandy road and a clear blue sky.
A dusty, old, white building with a blue roof and a faded sign, surrounded by a pile of tires, a blue trash can, and a white car, with a blue and white sign on the side.A dusty, old, white building with a blue roof and a faded sign, surrounded by a pile of tires, a blue trash can, and a white car, with a blue and white sign on the side.
A large building with green and white signs, a white truck, and a pile of dirt on the side of a road.A large building with green and white signs, a white truck, and a pile of dirt on the side of a road.

五百公里基本都是戈壁，很少见到植物。

A vast desert landscape with a large sand mound in the foreground, a clear blue sky with white clouds, and a distant mountain range.A vast desert landscape with a large sand mound in the foreground, a clear blue sky with white clouds, and a distant mountain range.
A vast desert landscape with a clear blue sky, mountains in the distance, and a few scattered clouds.A vast desert landscape with a clear blue sky, mountains in the distance, and a few scattered clouds.
A vast desert landscape with a mountain range in the background, a power line in the foreground, and a clear blue sky with clouds.A vast desert landscape with a mountain range in the background, a power line in the foreground, and a clear blue sky with clouds.
A barren desert landscape with a solitary red sign in the center, surrounded by a clear blue sky.A barren desert landscape with a solitary red sign in the center, surrounded by a clear blue sky.

茫崖市、茫崖镇、茫崖行委

今晚在花土沟住宿。但经过花土沟的时候我们没有停，直奔茫崖镇石棉矿。我之所以想去这里，是因为早就在谷歌地球上注意到这片区域。

A satellite image of a desert region with a large fire in the center, surrounded by mountains and a road.A satellite image of a desert region with a large fire in the center, surrounded by mountains and a road.
茫崖地区卫星图

在这里普及一些行政区划知识，厘清各种茫崖之间的关系。转自维基百科：

  • 1955年5月，青海省将海西州柴达木盆地划为省直属行政区，设立专区级的柴达木工作委员会，为省人民委员会派出机构。1955年7月底，柴达木工委在噶尔穆（即今格尔木市）正式成立。1955年10月，中央同意在柴达木盆地设立县级的马海临时工作委员会、茫崖临时工作委员会、噶尔穆临时工作委员会。

  • 1956年2月，柴达木工作委员会更名柴达木盆地工作委员会；将玉树藏族自治州治多县小唐古拉山地区划归柴达木盆地工作委员会，设立唐古拉山工作委员会（县级，驻温泉）。1956年3月，柴达木盆地工委由噶尔穆（今格尔木）迁驻大柴旦。

  • 1957年4月，柴达木盆地工作委员会改称柴达木盆地行政委员会。

  • 1957年底，马海临时工作委员会部分地区设立冷湖办事处（县级）。

  • 1958年1月，柴达木盆地行政委员会改称柴达木行政委员会。

  • 1959年3月，海西州政府迁至大柴旦，与柴达木行政委员会合署办公（1959年10月国务院批准）。

  • 1959年3月，青海石油管理局从大柴旦迁驻冷湖，组织超过2万人的石油会战。1953年9月，国务院批准设立冷湖市临工委。

  • 1960年11月，国务院批准：撤销噶尔穆工作委员会，设立格尔木市；撤销冷湖市临时工作委员会，设立冷湖市；以马海、噶尔穆工作委员会部分地区设立大柴旦市。

  • 1962年11月，中央批示撤销柴达木行政委员会，并入海西蒙、藏、哈萨克族自治州，改名海西蒙古族藏族哈萨克族自治州。1962年12月，柴达木行委正式撤销，海西蒙古族藏族哈萨克族自治州正式办公，海西州人委决定州址暂设大柴旦。

  • 2018年2月经国务院民政部批准，撤销茫崖行政委员会和冷湖行政委员会，合并设立县级茫崖市。

现在说的茫崖，指的是茫崖、冷湖合并后的茫崖市。

茫崖其名来自蒙古语“额头”，音“茫乃”，经过汉语的变音，成了“茫nái”。但因为汉语中崖没有这个读音，导致其他人看到都会读成茫yá。最终为了信息检索等各种原因，政府把官方发音也改成了“茫yá”。

茫崖市下辖3个镇，市政府所在地花土沟镇、原来的冷湖四号基地冷湖镇、以及石棉矿的茫崖镇。

我们今天要去的，就是茫崖镇的石棉矿。

穿越到60年代

在花土沟的时候还是阳光明媚，越往茫崖镇走能见度越差，天空变得灰暗，太阳越来越暗。按照导航，我们离开公路，驶入一条砂石路。

A desert landscape with a row of white wind turbines, a small vehicle, and tire tracks, under a cloudy sky.A desert landscape with a row of white wind turbines, a small vehicle, and tire tracks, under a cloudy sky.
A vast desert landscape with a row of white wind turbines, each with red and white striped poles, under a clear blue sky.A vast desert landscape with a row of white wind turbines, each with red and white striped poles, under a clear blue sky.

事后证明导航给的是一条绕着矿区的土路，虽然也能到茫崖镇中心，但更建议经石棉矿的农林科（福利区）到矿区。

矿区中心是一个小广场，周围分布着工人俱乐部、矿区综合大楼、茫崖镇政府、水泵房、医院门诊部等建筑，大多兴建于60年代。

茫崖石棉矿被列入第四批国家级工业遗产，保护的还不错。建筑的窗户和门被封死，其他区域则用围栏围起来。如果不这么做，玻璃一定会被打破，所有废墟都不例外。

An old, dilapidated two-story building with a blue door and a large window on the second floor stands in a barren, empty lot. The sky is cloudy, and the ground is covered in dirt and gravel.An old, dilapidated two-story building with a blue door and a large window on the second floor stands in a barren, empty lot. The sky is cloudy, and the ground is covered in dirt and gravel.
工人文化室旧址。当年矿区中心
A large, dilapidated building with a blue door and a window on the second floor, surrounded by power lines and a telephone pole.A large, dilapidated building with a blue door and a window on the second floor, surrounded by power lines and a telephone pole.
矿区综合办公楼
A large concrete tower with a round top and a small antenna stands in the background, surrounded by a fence and a pile of dirt. A blue sign with white arrows and Chinese characters is in the foreground, pointing to the left.A large concrete tower with a round top and a small antenna stands in the background, surrounded by a fence and a pile of dirt. A blue sign with white arrows and Chinese characters is in the foreground, pointing to the left.
A red and white signboard with Chinese characters, advertising a museum in Beijing, is located in front of a beige building with a window.A red and white signboard with Chinese characters, advertising a museum in Beijing, is located in front of a beige building with a window.
工人文化室
An old, dilapidated building with a white roof, three boarded-up windows, and a gray door with Chinese characters on it.An old, dilapidated building with a white roof, three boarded-up windows, and a gray door with Chinese characters on it.
小卖部
A dilapidated building with a blue sign on a concrete wall, a concrete pillar, and a covered walkway, surrounded by a dirt road and a cloudy sky.A dilapidated building with a blue sign on a concrete wall, a concrete pillar, and a covered walkway, surrounded by a dirt road and a cloudy sky.
水泵房
A large red and white signboard with Chinese characters, possibly indicating a building or landmark, is displayed on a dirt ground.A large red and white signboard with Chinese characters, possibly indicating a building or landmark, is displayed on a dirt ground.
A desolate, dilapidated building with a collapsed wall and a door, surrounded by a fence and a barren desert landscape.A desolate, dilapidated building with a collapsed wall and a door, surrounded by a fence and a barren desert landscape.
A building with a blue sign on a concrete wall, a window with metal bars, and a door with a metal gate.A building with a blue sign on a concrete wall, a window with metal bars, and a door with a metal gate.
邮电所旧址

更多图片见青海茫崖石棉矿。

为什么照片看起来都是灰蒙蒙的？其实你能搜到的这里的照片大多数也是这样。这里刮着强风，吹起漫天的石棉粉尘，肉眼看差不多就是这样。

革命年代的印记

在水泵房外墙上印有大量毛主席语录，提醒你这些房子虽然看起来像是80年代的，实际上的历史要久很多。

A weathered, gray concrete sign with yellow Chinese characters is attached to a red brick wall, with a small black spot on the left side.A weathered, gray concrete sign with yellow Chinese characters is attached to a red brick wall, with a small black spot on the left side.
A weathered, yellow sign with Chinese characters is mounted on a brick wall, with a person standing nearby.A weathered, yellow sign with Chinese characters is mounted on a brick wall, with a person standing nearby.
A white brick wall with a yellow sign on it, possibly in China, is against a cloudy sky.A white brick wall with a yellow sign on it, possibly in China, is against a cloudy sky.
毛主席语录

农林科(大河坝)福利区

由于石棉对人有害，石棉矿的生活区便设在茫崖石棉矿区东南18公里处。1958年，茫崖成立石棉矿后，青海省农林厅曾在此设一农林科，进行种植业实验而得名。1983年后，国家建材局茫崖石棉矿在农林科地址附近设立生活福利区，建造办公楼、职工宿舍、医院、学校、俱乐部、体育馆、卫星地面接收站、招待所等设施，商业、银行、邮电、粮食等服务行业齐全，随后机关、职工家属陆续由矿山搬迁至此。

从茫崖镇出来后，我们走了另一条看起来路况更好的路，看方向是通往生活区的路。

A long, empty road stretches into the distance, lined with wooden telephone poles and bars, and surrounded by barren, dry land.A long, empty road stretches into the distance, lined with wooden telephone poles and bars, and surrounded by barren, dry land.
通往生活区
A long, empty road stretches into the distance, lined with wooden poles and power lines, under a cloudy sky. The road is surrounded by barren, sandy terrain and distant mountains.A long, empty road stretches into the distance, lined with wooden poles and power lines, under a cloudy sky. The road is surrounded by barren, sandy terrain and distant mountains.
通往矿区

途中遇到一处湿地，是当地的水源地。

A desolate landscape with a vast body of water, a sandy beach, and a row of wind turbines in the distance.A desolate landscape with a vast body of water, a sandy beach, and a row of wind turbines in the distance.
茫崖生活区水源地
A vast, barren desert with a row of white wind turbines in the distance.A vast, barren desert with a row of white wind turbines in the distance.

石棉矿在网上的图很少，即便有也都是当年在这工作生活的人回来追忆时拍的，没找到专门到这游览的照片。然而在这里我们遇到了一辆辽宁牌照的房车，看来喜欢这些工业废墟的人还不少啊。

A gray pickup truck is parked on the side of a road, with a yellow building in the background featuring Chinese characters on its facade. The sky is gray and hazy.A gray pickup truck is parked on the side of a road, with a yellow building in the background featuring Chinese characters on its facade. The sky is gray and hazy.
茫崖生活区超市
A yellow building with a red sign, a blue car, and a tree with green leaves are in front of a yellow building.A yellow building with a red sign, a blue car, and a tree with green leaves are in front of a yellow building.
石棉矿生活区
A busy street scene with a white car, a blue truck, and a green building with Chinese characters.A busy street scene with a white car, a blue truck, and a green building with Chinese characters.
石棉矿生活区

说实话生活区看起来比我预料的要好很多，居民楼大多是两三层，并不像谷歌地球上看到的那样破败。

然而这里实在是太偏远了，最近的城市是70公里外的花土沟，而花土沟本身就是个极其偏远的城市，距离敦煌500多公里，距离德令哈600多公里，距离格尔木450公里。往西呢，到若羌有350公里。更何况若羌、格尔木、德令哈这些地方本来就符合一般人心中“偏远”的定义。

如果花土沟算偏远的二次方，石棉矿就是偏远的三次方了。加上漫天的粉尘，真有点世界尽头的感觉了。

油城长得都一样

我的愿望满足后我们返回花土沟镇。

花土沟是个典型的油城，只有两种人：油田的人，和为油田的人服务的人。油田的人很好分辨，他们穿着中石油鲜艳的红色制服，走到哪都自带光环。

在花土沟的时候我就总有种回到克拉玛依的感觉，因为这两个城市的街道、地貌都太像了，只是花土沟的人更少，城市更小。

A man in a black shirt stands on a sidewalk in front of a large building with a blue sign, a truck parked nearby, and a tree on the sidewalk.A man in a black shirt stands on a sidewalk in front of a large building with a blue sign, a truck parked nearby, and a tree on the sidewalk.
花土沟街景

然后我们吃了今天第一顿热饭。

A wooden table with a blue plate of food, including meat, vegetables, and sauce, is set on a white napkin.A wooden table with a blue plate of food, including meat, vegetables, and sauce, is set on a white napkin.
A wooden table with a white plate holding a dish of noodles, chickpeas, and green herbs, topped with a sauce.A wooden table with a white plate holding a dish of noodles, chickpeas, and green herbs, topped with a sauce.
A black cast iron pot filled with a hearty beef and potato dish, garnished with green onions and red peppers, sits on a wooden table. The pot is accompanied by chopsticks and a white napkin.A black cast iron pot filled with a hearty beef and potato dish, garnished with green onions and red peppers, sits on a wooden table. The pot is accompanied by chopsticks and a white napkin.
A wooden dining table with a plate of food, including skewered meat and vegetables, and a bowl of green beans, is set on a wooden table.A wooden dining table with a plate of food, including skewered meat and vegetables, and a bowl of green beans, is set on a wooden table.

今天主要是赶路，顺便看了一个我自己一直都想看的遗迹。明天才开始打卡热门景点。

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